Sunday, January 31, 2010

designer's dirty little secret

A vintage store like this is a designer's heaven. Indeed, this small place hidden in East Village is where Michael Kors, Nicolas Ghesquière of Balenciaga and Anna Sui come in to buy exquisite vintage designs collected from all over the world from various fashion periods. Designers buy vintage pieces as an inspirational source for their collections and at times, these pieces can save designers from what I like to call, 'designer's block.'

I have visited this store a couple of times in the past, but today, I saw some great pieces that I wanted to add to my own vintage collection. For me, searching for the most magnificent pieces in a vintage store starts from browsing the "special sections." Vintage stores often have a designated section for quality pieces made out of delicate fabrics (silk, lace, beadwork) and this is where you're guaranteed to find something unique, well-made, and worthy of your time.
Another tip. Most owners notice when you know how to 'read' fabric and design. Once you've become friendly with the owners, they'll invite you to a special section in the store - usually, the backroom.
Love the glittery one-shoulder number displayed next to silk chiffon dress in bright fuscia with beadwork. If you enlarge the photo, you can see seafoam green Manolos with crystals displayed underneath the one-shoulder dress. I ended up getting this fuscia dress, which looked beautiful from the front, but even more amazing from the back. Close-up photos to be added next time.
This is the special section of the store. I found many many things I liked in this small section: a detailed long scoop back black silk dress with exposed linings in peach silk, which split open in the middle on the front (the owner says the piece was used in a film recently), beautiful french lace dresses, a well-cut black velvet dress with lace overlay (very Valentino, I thought) and this thick silk satin dress in pinkish ivory with handsewn pink beads and crystals. This was the piece I had to buy. If you look closely, beads are sewn in fan-shapes!

There are many pieces in the store that reminded me of contemporary and couture design houses. For instance, I can see the leftmost piece being presented on Christian Dior show. The short dress in pink with intricate embroidery work, perhaps Anna Sui (since she's a fan of this store herself) or even the House of Balenciaga. There were couple of pieces that I thought were museum worthy. I nonchalantly asked the owner if she had any Poiret in the store, and in fact, she did!

winning shoes

Valentino (source: net-a-porter)



There are always those shoes that make other shoes seem petty. Here's my wishlist for spring 2010.

Miu Miu

Extremely versatile stamped crocodile leather sandals that can be worn with virtually any outfit. Popular sizes have sold out already.


Stella McCartney
This is a bandage dress in a shoe. Satin yellow will look pretty with flowy flower-print dresses. Sleek sleek sleek!


Christian Louboutin
I call these 'turban' heels. Gathered details that cinch in the middle with the knot make this shoe special. The design is also very retro. Despite its beauty, keep in mind that these heels may not be your best walking shoes.

Lanvin
January and February are difficult months for me, fashion-wise. I face the same dilemma everytime I go shopping during these months. Should I invest in winter gear that's going on sale or should I indulge in fun, colorful spring fashion to make my dark winter days seem a little brighter? The decision gets tougher when you find divine winter booties with great leatherwork - Nappa leather in this case - with the perfect ankle length and heel design.
Shouldn't a girl be allowed to indulge after surviving those awful snowstorms and dreadfully cold winter days? I would say so.
-
image sources: net-a-porter, barneys

Saturday, January 30, 2010

ideas for photo essay project

ways of putting together a linear form of photo essay:

fiction versus non-fiction (narrative)
moving away from 'nouns' and objects
(q: why do we like to 'name' things in our culture? this, that, you, me, i have 'this')
vertical versus horizontal
use of a different 'note' (as in music)
spiritual versus factual


ideas for non-linear projects:

3-dimensional forms beyond the use of web
things in motion
joy versus tragedy
(q: why do we exaggerate more to visualize 'tragedy'? why do assume that we know 'joy' so well? we think we know it but it can be just as complex as tragedy)
oscar wilde's short story "the happy prince"

Thursday, January 7, 2010

winter magic



Blurry, out of focus images of the Lincoln Center on January 2, 2010. Still they are just as beautiful as the images in my head from my girlhood.


eye level


This is what I'm seeing at the moment, sitting at my desk...

Most of my beloved novels and magazines are placed on the bookcase in the living room and I noticed that I don't pay much attention to what I usually keep at my desk. If I come home with the latest copy of Harper's Bazaar or a novella I stumbled across at a bookshop, then these end up on my desk bookshelf for a week or two.


I also keep books that I like reading over and over again on this shelf: Oscar Wilde's "The Picture of Dorian Gray" and Rainer Maria Rilke's "Rilke on Love and Other Difficulties." I see the 'street style' calendar from my friend Nati and a new leather-bound agenda book for 2010. The little jeweled rabbit with a pom pom tail was sold as a christmas ornament at Anthropologie and I decided to display it on my desk for winter months...


Two things I'm particularly in love with are Autumn/Winter 09 Ten Magazine and a little art book on "Artists' Sessions at Studio 35 (1950)."

First off, this issue of Ten Magazine had editorials and articles full of inspirational quotes and images. Gossamer mint silk gown by Dior with ivory embroidery thrown over leathery bodysuit was a good example of pairing romantic girliness with tough chic. Second editorial was by far my favorite in this issue: vivid color of that coat, the placement of objects, and the way she's wearing her pumps.


Next editorial was on fashion and attitude of New York City and this is the shot I enjoyed the most: Vivienne Westwood shawl casually thrown over a Gucci suit. Love the way image turned out with a passing stranger on the right and the use of accessories! (I think I might get that Statue of Liberty hat from one of those Time Square souvenir shops...fun!) I even liked the magazine cover, which rarely happens to me. Look at those white sports socks worn with a sexy, skin-baring dress. Would've been a completely different cover had they put on a pair of skyrocketing stilettos on her, but this way, it's less obvious and I find it more convincing.


Before I say anything about this tiny 4'' by 6'' art book, I must say the shot on the cover is a dream. You're seeing Willem de Kooning, Richard Lippold and Adolph Gottlieb sitting together having a beer and conversing on topics such as 'when do you know a painting is finished,' or 'an emphasis of geometry as an emphasis on the 'known.'' These are questions that many art students and art observers like myself have from time to time and the questions seldom get lost without being answered or even discussed. I think these are thoughts worthy of exploring and to that extent, this little book does a remarkable job, letting me into that specific art world that I have never been and never will be a part of.


The book takes a form of Plato's dialogue text and it is essentially a dialogue among abstract painters who were invited to join a 3-day forum hosted by New York University school of art education from April 21, 1960 to April 23, 1950. I leave you with a couple of discussions I found interesting and powerful:


Baziotes: ...this Particular time has gotten to a point where the artist feels like a gambler. He does something on the canvas and takes a chance in the hope that something important will be revealed.
Reinhardt: I would like to ask a question about the exact involvement of a work of art. What kind of love or grief is there in it? I don't understand, in a painting, the love of anything except the love of painting itself. If there is agony, other than the agony of painting, I don't know exactly what kind of agony that would be. I am sure external agony does not enter very importantly into agony of our painting.
De Kooning: I feel it isn't so much the act of being obliged to someone or to society, but rather one of conviction. I think, whatever happens, every man works for himself, and he does it on the basis of convincing himself. I force my attitude upon this world, and I have this right - particularly in this country - and I think it is wonderful, and if it does not come off, it is alright, too. I don't see any reason why we should go and look into past history and find a place or try to take a similar position.
Biala: I don't think a work of art is finished until it has found its audience.
Moderator Moherwell: Is the artist his own audience?
Biala: Nothing exists by itself. It only exists in relation to something else: when it can find one other person in the world.
-
Moderator Motherwell: ..."Beauty" is not for her the primary source of inspiration. She thinks that "beauty" is discovered en route.
Reinhardt: Is there anyone here who considers himself a producer of beautiful objects?
Smith: ...the question of "beauty" does not inspire the creator, but is a result of recognition.
-
Gottlieb: Isn't it possible that a straight line could develop on your canvas? I am inclined to think that it does not appear because it is excluded. Swirling shapes are not just the result of unconscious process.
Brooks: It is not as deliberate as you think. I have a preference for it, but that is as far as I can go.
Ferber: Why is geometry more clear than the use of swirling shapes?
Reinhadt: Let's straighten out our terminology, if we can. Vagueness is a "romantic" value, and clarity and "geometricity" are "classic" values.
De Kooning: I meant geometry in art. Geometry was against art - the beauty of the rectangle, I mean.
Moderator Lippold: This means that a rectangle is unclear?
De Kooning: Yes.
Moderator Motherwell: Lippold resents the implication that a geometric form is not "clear."
De Kooning: The end of a painting in this kind of geometric painting would be almost the graphic for a possible painting - like a blueprint.
Smith: ...a straight line is a form which is the most abstact thing you can find. It is a support, not an element.
De Kooning: I think a straight line does not exist. There is no such thing as a straight line in painting.
-
Moderator Motherwell: It would be very difficult to formultate a position in which there were no external relations. I cannot imagine any structure begin defined as though it only has internal meaning.
Reinhardt: I want to know the outside truth. I think I know the internal one.
-

How great is it that you feel like you have become a part of the discussion through their dialogue? I felt my head spinning during my reading, turning from one artist to another, as if they were real people sitting at a table with me. Not only do you get to look at how each artist thinks, but also, you get a glimpse of who they are as individuals - as different thinking minds.

I particularly enjoyed the dialogue form of this text. It truly reflects how artists view themselves and view their contemporaries. How else would you get to know one artist's attitude towards another if not in this dialogue form?

I also found it satisfying that these abstract painters were going on and on about geometric shapes and the validity of a straight line. I've always wondered about this in abstract painting and it is a relief to know that even the painters themselves could not reach a conclusion. In fact, how would they? They were abstract painters.

-
Source:
Artists' Sessions at Studio 35 (1950). Edited by Robert Goodnough. Soberscove Press/Wittenborn Art books, 2009.

Sunday, January 3, 2010

fashion investments



This is arguably one of my best fashion investments made in high school: yellow satin ballet flats with diamente details from Loeffler Randall's first collection. The pair is ancient now and I discovered that these shoes are nowhere to be found in any fashion archives on the Internet. These flats have 0.25'' round heels on the bottoom sole that make the clinking sound when I walk in them.

I'd originally bought them to wear with a long chiffon dress for one of my piano recitals at school but they proved to be an excellent fashion investment. To this day, it puts an ear-to-ear smile on my face when I take out that pale pink box and uncover these shiny satin shoes.

The only problem I have with these beautiful shoes is that they're too delicate to be worn around the city, and thus, can only be worn on special occasions. I wish I had made more fashion investments on Loeffler Randall back then.

these are from one of their earlier collections
(source: google image)

very uniquely new york


one look from Philip Lim's s/s 2010 says it all
(image source: style.com)

Sparkling bronze minidress with red heels!

This is why I love New York Fashion Week every season. New York collections are known for being practical, but more and more, I see clothes that border between RTW (or even sportswear) and haute couture. Unlike some established brands - that are actually going through a period of re-branding, these emerging talents have distinct personalities. Yet, their clothes are always wearable.