The Midnight Coterie

designer's dirty little secret

2010-01-31T19:20:00.001-08:00

A vintage store like this is a designer's heaven. Indeed, this small place hidden in East Village is where Michael Kors, Nicolas Ghesquière of Balenciaga and Anna Sui come in to buy exquisite vintage designs collected from all over the world from various fashion periods. Designers buy vintage pieces as an inspirational source for their collections and at times, these pieces can save designers from what I like to call, 'designer's block.'

I have visited this store a couple of times in the past, but today, I saw some great pieces that I wanted to add to my own vintage collection. For me, searching for the most magnificent pieces in a vintage store starts from browsing the "special sections." Vintage stores often have a designated section for quality pieces made out of delicate fabrics (silk, lace, beadwork) and this is where you're guaranteed to find something unique, well-made, and worthy of your time.

Another tip. Most owners notice when you know how to 'read' fabric and design. Once you've become friendly with the owners, they'll invite you to a special section in the store - usually, the backroom.

Love the glittery one-shoulder number displayed next to silk chiffon dress in bright fuscia with beadwork. If you enlarge the photo, you can see seafoam green Manolos with crystals displayed underneath the one-shoulder dress. I ended up getting this fuscia dress, which looked beautiful from the front, but even more amazing from the back. Close-up photos to be added next time.

This is the special section of the store. I found many many things I liked in this small section: a detailed long scoop back black silk dress with exposed linings in peach silk, which split open in the middle on the front (the owner says the piece was used in a film recently), beautiful french lace dresses, a well-cut black velvet dress with lace overlay (very Valentino, I thought) and this thick silk satin dress in pinkish ivory with handsewn pink beads and crystals. This was the piece I had to buy. If you look closely, beads are sewn in fan-shapes!

There are many pieces in the store that reminded me of contemporary and couture design houses. For instance, I can see the leftmost piece being presented on Christian Dior show. The short dress in pink with intricate embroidery work, perhaps Anna Sui (since she's a fan of this store herself) or even the House of Balenciaga. There were couple of pieces that I thought were museum worthy. I nonchalantly asked the owner if she had any Poiret in the store, and in fact, she did!

winning shoes

2010-01-31T17:15:00.000-08:00

Valentino (source: net-a-porter)

There are always those shoes that make other shoes seem petty. Here's my wishlist for spring 2010.

Miu Miu

Extremely versatile stamped crocodile leather sandals that can be worn with virtually any outfit. Popular sizes have sold out already.

Stella McCartney

This is a bandage dress in a shoe. Satin yellow will look pretty with flowy flower-print dresses. Sleek sleek sleek!

Christian Louboutin

I call these 'turban' heels. Gathered details that cinch in the middle with the knot make this shoe special. The design is also very retro. Despite its beauty, keep in mind that these heels may not be your best walking shoes.

Lanvin

January and February are difficult months for me, fashion-wise. I face the same dilemma everytime I go shopping during these months. Should I invest in winter gear that's going on sale or should I indulge in fun, colorful spring fashion to make my dark winter days seem a little brighter? The decision gets tougher when you find divine winter booties with great leatherwork - Nappa leather in this case - with the perfect ankle length and heel design.

Shouldn't a girl be allowed to indulge after surviving those awful snowstorms and dreadfully cold winter days? I would say so.

image sources: net-a-porter, barneys

ideas for photo essay project

2010-01-30T20:44:00.000-08:00

ways of putting together a linear form of photo essay:

fiction versus non-fiction (narrative)
moving away from 'nouns' and objects
(q: why do we like to 'name' things in our culture? this, that, you, me, i have 'this')
vertical versus horizontal
use of a different 'note' (as in music)
spiritual versus factual

ideas for non-linear projects:

3-dimensional forms beyond the use of web
things in motion
joy versus tragedy
(q: why do we exaggerate more to visualize 'tragedy'? why do assume that we know 'joy' so well? we think we know it but it can be just as complex as tragedy)
oscar wilde's short story "the happy prince"

winter magic

2010-01-07T16:12:00.001-08:00

Blurry, out of focus images of the Lincoln Center on January 2, 2010. Still they are just as beautiful as the images in my head from my girlhood.

eye level

2010-01-07T14:01:00.000-08:00

This is what I'm seeing at the moment, sitting at my desk...

Most of my beloved novels and magazines are placed on the bookcase in the living room and I noticed that I don't pay much attention to what I usually keep at my desk. If I come home with the latest copy of Harper's Bazaar or a novella I stumbled across at a bookshop, then these end up on my desk bookshelf for a week or two.

I also keep books that I like reading over and over again on this shelf: Oscar Wilde's "The Picture of Dorian Gray" and Rainer Maria Rilke's "Rilke on Love and Other Difficulties." I see the 'street style' calendar from my friend Nati and a new leather-bound agenda book for 2010. The little jeweled rabbit with a pom pom tail was sold as a christmas ornament at Anthropologie and I decided to display it on my desk for winter months...

Two things I'm particularly in love with are Autumn/Winter 09 Ten Magazine and a little art book on "Artists' Sessions at Studio 35 (1950)."

First off, this issue of Ten Magazine had editorials and articles full of inspirational quotes and images. Gossamer mint silk gown by Dior with ivory embroidery thrown over leathery bodysuit was a good example of pairing romantic girliness with tough chic. Second editorial was by far my favorite in this issue: vivid color of that coat, the placement of objects, and the way she's wearing her pumps.

Next editorial was on fashion and attitude of New York City and this is the shot I enjoyed the most: Vivienne Westwood shawl casually thrown over a Gucci suit. Love the way image turned out with a passing stranger on the right and the use of accessories! (I think I might get that Statue of Liberty hat from one of those Time Square souvenir shops...fun!) I even liked the magazine cover, which rarely happens to me. Look at those white sports socks worn with a sexy, skin-baring dress. Would've been a completely different cover had they put on a pair of skyrocketing stilettos on her, but this way, it's less obvious and I find it more convincing.

Before I say anything about this tiny 4'' by 6'' art book, I must say the shot on the cover is a dream. You're seeing Willem de Kooning, Richard Lippold and Adolph Gottlieb sitting together having a beer and conversing on topics such as 'when do you know a painting is finished,' or 'an emphasis of geometry as an emphasis on the 'known.'' These are questions that many art students and art observers like myself have from time to time and the questions seldom get lost without being answered or even discussed. I think these are thoughts worthy of exploring and to that extent, this little book does a remarkable job, letting me into that specific art world that I have never been and never will be a part of.

The book takes a form of Plato's dialogue text and it is essentially a dialogue among abstract painters who were invited to join a 3-day forum hosted by New York University school of art education from April 21, 1960 to April 23, 1950. I leave you with a couple of discussions I found interesting and powerful:

Baziotes: ...this Particular time has gotten to a point where the artist feels like a gambler. He does something on the canvas and takes a chance in the hope that something important will be revealed.

Reinhardt: I would like to ask a question about the exact involvement of a work of art. What kind of love or grief is there in it? I don't understand, in a painting, the love of anything except the love of painting itself. If there is agony, other than the agony of painting, I don't know exactly what kind of agony that would be. I am sure external agony does not enter very importantly into agony of our painting.

De Kooning: I feel it isn't so much the act of being obliged to someone or to society, but rather one of conviction. I think, whatever happens, every man works for himself, and he does it on the basis of convincing himself. I force my attitude upon this world, and I have this right - particularly in this country - and I think it is wonderful, and if it does not come off, it is alright, too. I don't see any reason why we should go and look into past history and find a place or try to take a similar position.

Biala: I don't think a work of art is finished until it has found its audience.

Moderator Moherwell: Is the artist his own audience?

Biala: Nothing exists by itself. It only exists in relation to something else: when it can find one other person in the world.

Moderator Motherwell: ..."Beauty" is not for her the primary source of inspiration. She thinks that "beauty" is discovered en route.

Reinhardt: Is there anyone here who considers himself a producer of beautiful objects?

Smith: ...the question of "beauty" does not inspire the creator, but is a result of recognition.

Gottlieb: Isn't it possible that a straight line could develop on your canvas? I am inclined to think that it does not appear because it is excluded. Swirling shapes are not just the result of unconscious process.

Brooks: It is not as deliberate as you think. I have a preference for it, but that is as far as I can go.

Ferber: Why is geometry more clear than the use of swirling shapes?

Reinhadt: Let's straighten out our terminology, if we can. Vagueness is a "romantic" value, and clarity and "geometricity" are "classic" values.

De Kooning: I meant geometry in art. Geometry was against art - the beauty of the rectangle, I mean.

Moderator Lippold: This means that a rectangle is unclear?

De Kooning: Yes.

Moderator Motherwell: Lippold resents the implication that a geometric form is not "clear."

De Kooning: The end of a painting in this kind of geometric painting would be almost the graphic for a possible painting - like a blueprint.

Smith: ...a straight line is a form which is the most abstact thing you can find. It is a support, not an element.

De Kooning: I think a straight line does not exist. There is no such thing as a straight line in painting.

Moderator Motherwell: It would be very difficult to formultate a position in which there were no external relations. I cannot imagine any structure begin defined as though it only has internal meaning.

Reinhardt: I want to know the outside truth. I think I know the internal one.

How great is it that you feel like you have become a part of the discussion through their dialogue? I felt my head spinning during my reading, turning from one artist to another, as if they were real people sitting at a table with me. Not only do you get to look at how each artist thinks, but also, you get a glimpse of who they are as individuals - as different thinking minds.

I particularly enjoyed the dialogue form of this text. It truly reflects how artists view themselves and view their contemporaries. How else would you get to know one artist's attitude towards another if not in this dialogue form?

I also found it satisfying that these abstract painters were going on and on about geometric shapes and the validity of a straight line. I've always wondered about this in abstract painting and it is a relief to know that even the painters themselves could not reach a conclusion. In fact, how would they? They were abstract painters.

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Source:

Artists' Sessions at Studio 35 (1950). Edited by Robert Goodnough. Soberscove Press/Wittenborn Art books, 2009.

fashion investments

2010-01-03T22:30:00.000-08:00

This is arguably one of my best fashion investments made in high school: yellow satin ballet flats with diamente details from Loeffler Randall's first collection. The pair is ancient now and I discovered that these shoes are nowhere to be found in any fashion archives on the Internet. These flats have 0.25'' round heels on the bottoom sole that make the clinking sound when I walk in them.

I'd originally bought them to wear with a long chiffon dress for one of my piano recitals at school but they proved to be an excellent fashion investment. To this day, it puts an ear-to-ear smile on my face when I take out that pale pink box and uncover these shiny satin shoes.

The only problem I have with these beautiful shoes is that they're too delicate to be worn around the city, and thus, can only be worn on special occasions. I wish I had made more fashion investments on Loeffler Randall back then.

these are from one of their earlier collections

(source: google image)

very uniquely new york

2010-01-03T22:12:00.000-08:00

one look from Philip Lim's s/s 2010 says it all
(image source: style.com)

Sparkling bronze minidress with red heels!

This is why I love New York Fashion Week every season. New York collections are known for being practical, but more and more, I see clothes that border between RTW (or even sportswear) and haute couture. Unlike some established brands - that are actually going through a period of re-branding, these emerging talents have distinct personalities. Yet, their clothes are always wearable.

my absolute favorite of s/s 2010

2010-01-03T21:23:00.000-08:00

Elbaz's last four jewel encrusted frocks on s/s 2010 runway
(image source: style.com)

Lanvin by Alber Elbaz won my heart at first sight this season. I loved everything about it - jewel encrusted dresses in lollipop colors (his last four dresses on s/s 2010 runway, especially!), lots of draping, those wonderfully pointy heels, rompers (more shockingly, jeweled rompers that looked elegant!), nude palette, use of a single glove in one look, and even the hairstyle! Elbaz is of course, known for creating clothes women desire to have in their closets, but this time, I coveted every single look on that runway. More of that, please!

image source: style.com

Current Infatuations

2010-01-03T20:23:00.000-08:00

Tightly edited selection of art & children's books
at 192 Books in Chelsea
Resortwear
Japanese handrolls
Cruise ship design of the Maritime Hotel in Chelsea
Giant jeweled disco ball at the Lincoln Center's
David H. Koch Theatre
Sorbet colored satin shoes
Peachy beige silk used in Sonia Rykiel for H&M lingerie collection
Cone-shaped satin bras in creme
Leather duffel bags
Crisp smell of snow
Mango butter
Thrillers
Pencil skirt
Cashmere turtleneck
Museum coffee table books
(Curent favorites: Robert Delaunay's "Hommage a Bleriot" by
Kunstmuseum Basel, "Cindy Sherman: Working Girl" by
Contemporary Museum St. Louis)
Gingham print
Lollipop colored frocks on Lanvin s/s 2010 runway
Fondue on sunday nights
Old Harper's Bazaar issues
Snow globe frame
Coral motives used in Alexis Bittar's s/s 2009 collection
Sugar-white sand at Florida's Daytona Beach
Springtime lazy afternoon in Central Park's Sheep Meadow
Wool socks (but I rarely make use of them)
Packages from friends (Nati's style street calendar 2010!)
Familiar voices
(Once again) cuff links
Tortoiseshell frames
Smiling crimson lips
Everything about Rodarte (the clothes, the brand,
the makers & their sources of inspiration...)
Milkshake
(Once again) drapes
Nude palette
Warm hands
Lovers

"good-looking coffee machines" by alessi

2010-01-03T20:11:00.000-08:00

If I wanted to invest in new kitchenware right now, it would be 9090 espresso coffee maker by Alessi. It is the epitome of objects that are functional and beautiful. No wonder this design was Alessi's first object to be displayed in the Permanent Design Collection at the New York MoMA.

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image source: Alessi website

suzy menkes as an observer

2010-01-03T18:27:00.000-08:00

Another well-written report by Suzy Menkes. This time, she makes an acute observation on lifestyle in Berlin and new technology, and notably, how the two interact with one another.

Passages I found interesting:

"Cities, like music, have their own rhythms. They rise and fall in fashion, from Paris in the Belle Époque to Swinging London in the 1960s."

"The essence of modernity is new technology...luxury brands today are faced with unprecedented changes in actions and attitudes. "

"In this brave new world of individual expression, comments — both sweet and tart — go viral so fast that they give a whole new meaning to the words “fast fashion.”"

"It is the speed of change that is the most dramatic effect of new technology. Just as the Berlin of today is markedly different from even five years ago, so the commercial world is obliged to click repeatedly on the refresh button. As soon as one piece of social networking is absorbed into the system, another is invented. Yet these changes are not just part of a wired world. They are also in the minds of people who feel that anything can — and maybe should — be challenged, from the way we can now buy and sell, to the way we feel" ("Gritty Glamour in Berlin").

I like Menkes' writing because she thinks. Her subjects are always interesting too, but more than anything, her pieces reflect what she does best: "look[ing] beyond the immediate trends to analyse changing style in a social context" (Suzy Menkes - The New York Times).

According to NYT, "[Menkes] has examined the phenomenon of the working mother as it impacts on the burgeoning branded baby wear market; she has studied Italian family fashion houses and questioned the future of La Famiglia" (Suzy Menkes - The New York Times).

I am constantly fascinated by her ability to draw connections between matters that often go undetected by others. She writes passionately about her subjects, and as an avid reader of her writings, I find her to be a reliable observer.

image source: NYT

source: "Gritty Glamour in Berlin," "Suzy Menkes - The New York Times"

Filmmaker Tom Ford

2009-12-25T18:25:00.000-08:00

Most of us remembers Tom Ford as Gucci's iconic former Creative Director who reinvented the word 'sexy' in fashion. Since then, he went on to expand his own brand, Tom Ford, with various perfume lines, sunglasses, and menswear. This time, Tom Ford made a successful transition to filmmaker with "A Single Man."

"A Single Man" directed by Tom Ford (source: Ftape)

In the movie (story based on a Christopher Isherwood novel), Colin Firth plays "George Falconer, a college professor living in LA in 1962, impassively going through the motions of random encounters with friends, colleagues, and strangers...attaining an almost ecstatic vision of what it means to be alive" (Washington Post). Colin Firth received praise for this role, for his ability to "simultaneously evoke loneliness and appealing warmth" (Washington Post). For me, Colin Firth (my all-time favorite British Actor) playing this vulnerable character is a good enough reason to go see this movie.

However, it seems like the movie itself has garnered attention for the filmmaker's "finely callibrated storytelling" (Washington Post). Tom Ford claimed that his directing style has been influenced by Alfred Hitchcock and the movie adopts Hitchcock's narrative to an extent, showing the "momentum and the tension of a thriller" (Washington Post). I'm very curious to see what the movie has to offer in terms of style and narrative which I think could work brilliantly when unfolding George's complex character.

"A Single Man" trailer (source: YouTube)

Along with Angelika, The Paris Theatre across The Plaza is playing the film right now, which gives me a wonderful excuse to hop on the next cab and get a break from downtown!

Images from Google Image

Extras:

The fashionable crew at 2009 Toronto
International Film Festival (source: imdb)

Ford, Moore, and Firth at the 66th
Venice Film Festival (source: imdb)

Here are some red carpet photos. What an impeccably dressed crew! Both ivory and seafoam green dresses worn by Moore look stunning on her, classy and elegant, yet sexy. It's also nice to see Colin Firth less scruffy than usual and surprisingly fit. (Tom Ford wanted Colin Firth to look more fit for the role!)

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Source:

Homaday, Ann. "Movie Review: Colin Firth is subtly eloquent in Tom Ford's 'A Single Man'". Washington Post. 25 Dec 2009.

Current Infatuations...

2009-12-18T22:30:00.000-08:00

Drapes, satin & suede
Capes & wooly sweaters
Novels by Russian writers
(Bulgakov's "The Master and Margarita," Nabokov's "Lolita")
Anything that sparkles
Creme & Maroon
Boyfriend's t-shirts
Warm hot chocolate & almond croissant
Flannel bedsheets
Leather bound journals
Bubble bath
Sweetheart neckline
Film noir

Inès de la Fressange at Roger Vivier

2009-11-23T15:33:00.000-08:00

muse. model. and designer for Roger Vivier.

Her office at Roger Vivier says so much about her aesthetics

There are several things I like about her office space at Roger Vivier. First, the obvious - daring choice of pink wall - which looks great against the white of fireplace. Second, Roger Vivier shoes displayed in clear containers! The office also has some great furniture: the oriental chest, art deco-inspired hanged mirror, and the white stacked sofa table which completes the Daliesque surrealistic wall. I appreciate the red office files that look incredibly sophisticated and even refreshing in her office space.

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photo credit:
home photos from 'the selby.'

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thanks for the correction, Lisa!

sincerity...

2009-11-23T15:30:00.000-08:00

along with old world politeness, sincerity seems to be often overlooked in our modern society.

(source: google image)

sequined vs. jeweled heels

2009-11-23T15:02:00.000-08:00

Fabulous party shoes. I wear the sequined pair for nightouts - works well with wolford tights and black minidresses - and the jeweled ones for catching up dinner with friends. I'm also loving the cut-out detail in orange that looks incredible with ankle-length skinny pants.

Sequined: Kate Spade, Jeweled: Miu Miu

The Original Coterie

2009-07-19T17:59:00.000-07:00

"The original Coterie was a fashionable and famous set of
English aristocrats and intellectuals of the 1910s, popularly
written about in magazines and newspapers of the period.
Think, a place to hang your coat and be a part of a
brotherhood." - Britannica

Coterie was also a publication in the 1910s-1920s, which then became the little magazine New Coterie with their
contributors participating in the original Coterie. While doing
research on the original Coterie and Coterie publication, I
discovered that many of their concepts are reflected in
our own company philosophy and mission statement.
Here's a short commentary on Coterie from the Modernist
Journals Project.

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The premiere issue of Coterie (1919) went on sale for half a
crown at The Bomb Shop, a fashionable London bookstall
located at 66 Charing Cross Road. Published in six issues
between 1919 and 1921, Coterie was a modernist little
magazine that featured a diverse range of
contributions by writers and visual artists. Printed on
thick, high quality paper and featuring eye-catching
cover art, Coterie appealed to an audience that
wanted to remain “au courant in arts and letters”
(Tollers).

Editors Chaman Lall and Russell Green initially focused their
attention on publishing new poetry from young, up-and-
coming writers. The magazine earned a reputation during its
run for publishing T.S. Eliot’s poem "A Cooking Egg" and
Aldous Huxley’s poem "Leda". The contents broadened in
scope by the third issue to include visual art, drama, and
prose by both new and established artists.

Coterie’s independent approach to publication presented
opportunities for artists and writers to garner cultural capital. Modern writers and artists were an integral
part of the literary marketplace and often sought
coterie publications as a way of gaining recognition
within the avant-garde subculture while still resisting
large commercial publishers.

The approach was distinctly cosmopolitan; the inclusion of a
number of European and American contributors, a group of
American editors, numerous works by women, as well as a
transatlantic distribution, were but a few of the elements that
made Lall and Green’s magazine significant in the midst of the shifting post-war literary landscape.

Coterie consistently provided a platform for the work of
avant-garde artists as well as relatively unknown Oxford
poets such as T.W. Earp, Wilfred Rowland Childe, L.A.G.
Strong, and Eric Dickinson. At its inception Coterie was an
offshoot of a small literary group whose members had
previously published in Oxford Poetry, an anthology written
and edited by Oxford students. Coterie's editor Green went
on to edit the little magazine New Coterie from
1925-1927, bringing along with him many of the same
contributors who participated in the original Coterie.

Coterie also subtly participated in the modern debate over
the merits of abstract art versus representational art by
featuring work by artists on both ends of the debate.

Coterie was not a forceful, manifesto style publication, and
Lall and Green seem to have recognized that many of the
artistic schools which had so vigorously attempted to assert
their positions just a few years earlier were now simply being
“felt as a style rather than a movement” (Thacker).

Though Coterie began as a small collective of British writers
and Oxford students, it quickly became a transatlantic
collaboration by the third issue. Frederick Hoffman, in The
Little Magazine: A History and a Bibliography, describes
Coterie as “distinctive” within the little magazine market,
partially due to its support from American authors and
editors.

Coterie’ s style of modern pluralism might not have issued
forth a permanent change in arts and letters, but many of the contributors featured within Coterie, from both sides of the
Atlantic, would go on to form a new generation of original and influential modern artists and writers.

-

Sources:
Thacker, Andrew. "Coterie: A Loosely Edited Miscellany?"
Coterie_paper_Final.doc. Article received by Tara Aveilhe as
attachment. 16 August 2007.

Tollers, Vincent L. "Coterie". In British Literary Magazines:
The Modern Age, 1914-1984. Ed. Alvin Sullivan. New York:
Greenwood Press, 1986.

Aveilhe, Tara and Brad Manuel. "Group Periodical Survey
Report: Coterie, 1919-1920." Written for course taught by
Professor Sean Latham entitled “Modernism in the Archives”
at the University of Tulsa. August –December 2006.

Green, Russell. "Editorial."Coterie 6/7 (1920): 3-5

Hoffman, Frederick J., Charles Allen, and Carolyn F. Ulrich.
The Little Magazine: A History and Bibliography. Princeton:
Princeton UP, 1946.

Brown University. The Modernist Journals Project.
http://dl.lib.brown.edu:8081/exist/mjp/display.xq?docid=mjp.2005.00.102

(written on February 28, 2009)

Tea for Two, Two for Tea

2009-07-19T17:57:00.000-07:00

Along with other old-fashion ways of living that I fancy,
afternoon tea has always been one of those activities that I
enjoy engaging in but don't do enough of. I feel that
fast-paced modern life doesn't give you the kind of time that
you can reserve for yourself just for leisure. I see it as a
necessary mid-day break that can help you clear your mind
while admiring fine bone china tea cups, indulging in colorful
sweets and a pot of well-brewed tea.

In a way, afternoon tea has lost its appeal - but never its
charm - to mega coffee houses and franchises as some may
view it cumbersome to arrange such ritual during the day, when you have an electronic device in your hand that connects you to virtually everyone in the world for an afternoon chat. To my delight, I saw a great deal of tea-drinking scene in Europe, but I'm often surprised to come across decent places for afternoon tea in New York City. These are some of my favorite places:

1.
Payard
1032 Lexington Ave between 73rd and 74th Ave

One of my favorite patisseries in the city, Payard has daily
tea time Le Thé menu that comes with minature tea
sandwiches and scones. How cute.

2.
BG at Bergdorf Goodman
7th FL, 58th Street and 5th Ave

Perfect place to take a break from your shopping spree at
Bergdorf. They call BG "a modern interpretation of the
aristocratic social salon" as it is more suitable for ladies'
intimate afternoon tête-à-tête. Their gorgeous china is
something to marvel at while sipping Mariage Frères teas.

3.
Alice's Tea Cup
102 W. 73rd St nr Columbus Ave

A tea salon inspired by Alice in Wonderland. They have "The
Mad Hatter" on their menu that comes with a pot of tea,
sandwiches, scones and other delectable desserts. I often find myself lost in their Alice in Wonderland-themed space. Kids
seem to love it (they often come in their favorite Alice in
Wonderland character costumes) and I get to pretend to be
one.

4.
T Salon
75 9th Avenue

One of the rare tearooms that offers a proper tea menu for
afternoon tea. They have a unique selection of blends such as
Russian Caravan. It's cozy and quaint.

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Something extra:

The Berkeley
Wilton Place
Knightsbridge, London

London's Prêt-A-Portea at The Berkeley offers these
fashionable treats that are edible! There are looks from 3. 1
Philip Lim, Oscar de la Renta and Marchesa, a chiffon dress
from Alexander McQueen, Valentino's signature red coat with
gold buttons, Christian Louboutin's crystal pumps, and many
more designs that are too divine to be consumed. More
importantly, they change their menu every 6 months to
reflect the changing seasons of the fashion world.

photo credits: the berkeley,
payard, bergdorf goodman, flickr, t salon

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"Picture you upon my knee
Just tea for two
And two for tea
Just me for you
And you for me alone

Day will break and I'll wake
And start to bake a sugar cake
For you to take for all the boys to see"

- Pink Martini "Tea for Two"

Working with Hands: Jewelry Project on Art Deco

2009-05-03T15:21:00.000-07:00

I've been spending many weekend hours on a jewelry project: a multi-shaped metal chain with hanging elements that show different techniques such as riveting, hammering, sawing, stone-setting and soldering.

Like my sister, I like working with hands, especially on minature creations. I chose jewelry because I wanted to focus on my hands. This was the closest I could get to experiencing the way goldsmiths hone their skills on perfecting certain techniques.

I have recently realized that jewelry-making helps me appreciate small objects around me. Why take the time to file and sand a tiny sterling silver ring for hours when the same design that has been factory-produced can be easily bought at a store for under $20? Unless you try it for yourself, you'd never know the satisfaction that comes from wearing a fun design that you created with your own hands.

After weeks spent on research for this project, I decided to use geometric Art Deco shapes and vibrant colors that I loved so much in Miami. I played around with copper, bronze and sterling silver metal sheets and wires, and purchased mother of pearl and strawberry opal among the many stones that I bought that day.

One of the greatest things about creating things with hands is that you get to explore your imagination through your body. There are many ways of tapping the unconscious associated with unbounded creativity, and jewelry-making turned out to be just that perfect medium for me.

The process of making jewelry can be extremely labor intensive. Sawing a metal sheet can take up to hours and metal sheets tend to heat up pretty quickly. For this reason, jewelry-making requires harmonious coordination between the mind and the body. I remember burning the tip of my bezel, a metal crown used for stone-setting, by not paying close attention to what my hand was doing while soldering. Not only do you have to listen to the great ideas forming in your head, but also, you have to observe and understand the limitations of your body. Usually, the latter can be fixed with the help of jeweler's tools such as handy plyers or hammers in various sizes and shapes for molding.

Jewelry-making proved to be a challenging activity but also a very fascinating one. I discovered facts about myself and my thinking process by designing in my head and executing the design through my hands simultaneously. If you ever wonder what that feels like, drop those machine-made earrings and go sign up for the next jewelry class in your area.

Note: I'll be uploading the pictures of the final product on this page.

Trendspotting: Homage to My Little One Working Minimalism

2009-05-03T13:31:00.000-07:00

Loose-fit denim shirt. Utility bag from YSL. Vintage gold bracelet.

Everyday flats from Car Shoes. Chanel sports bag. Commes shirt.
Mom's Burberry scarf. Anna's perennial favorite: J. Crew cashmere cardigan.

She's a great friend and a wonderful business partner. She represents the core idea behind S. G. Coterie and she has a keen eye for quality creations. Together, she and I make a perfectly balanced team and our conversations could last for hours at a cafe over a pot of buccaneer tea and raspberry scones, touching on the subjects like music, arts, literature, fashion and film. But most importantly, she's an amazing little sister and an impeccable dresser with refined taste.

Anna has a distinct, relaxed minimalist style. She looks for clean items with an edge. At the same time, she knows how to appreciate humor in fashion objects. ThinkComme des Garçons's PLAY shirt with a smiling heart or a Lulu Guinness yellow gold chain necklace with daring red lips and a lipstick pendant.

Striped Commes shirt matched with a printed scarf.

Because she spent most of her time in New England, she often does that borrowed-from-the-boys look with layered cardigans and tassled loafers. (Look at the boy next to her in a matching attire!)

Another skill that I admire about her dressing is flexibility. She can go high and low with an ease and she knows when to dress up or down. Both she and I grew up appreciating quality high-fashion items, but we also enjoy spending Sunday afternoons at vintage markets, scouring for those unduplicable unique items that you will never see again in stores. She is one of the very few people around me who truly understands the beauty of handmade objects and old-fashsioned craftsmanship.

Over the years, I've noticed that she's experimenting with the 'unexpected element' in her outfits. She's the kind of girl who goes for the strappy Jil Sander flat sandals with upside-down heels. And she works them with plain, clean jeans and a classic button-down shirt. She makes her occasional trips to Bendels for headbands - one of her main signature items along with colorful scarves and gold jewelry. It's that little extra touch such as her dove-grey feather headband that gives an oomph to her minimalist, clean looks.

Anna rocking her Jil Sander sandals with
her signature minalist look

One thing she doesn't do so well in fashion is dressing appropriately for the weather. She needs to learn how to cover her feet in snow storms! There seems to be an unspoken rule about never wearing flats with socks. But again, I am her usual partner in crime when it comes to weather and not dressing accordingly. ("this coat ruins the proportion of the outfit so let's just go sans-coat," "the scarf doesn't match the shoes. do an open-neck with that look although it's negative something degrees outside.")

In closing remark, I have to say, her style is just one of the many things that inspires me. For instance, she is a remarkable photographer. Her works reflect her ability to arrange visual objects in a wholly different way - similar to how poets play with word arrangements to shake your world upside down. That combined with her intellectual curiosity makes the images even more convincing, because she strives to tell stories with her creations.

Anna working on S. G. Coterie Lookbook

Anna generally enjoys working with her hands. I'd often modeled for her portrait shots and I remember her telling me how she prefers to develop on her photos. This way, she could feel and smell the chemicals. She also commented on how she likes being the master of her creation without the help of an advanced technology such as computer design software that does all the real creative work in a mere second, taking a crucial element out of the printing process.

For the same reason, she designs and makes (all hand-made!) headbands and other accessories for S. G. Coterie's house label Beau Oise. It is one of her dedicated hobbies and a true gift. Her ideas are influenced by different fashion eras - turbans (French Riviera), sparkly diamente satin headbands (glittery jazz era) - and her other equally important interests such as classic rock reflected in the edgy, tough chic designs.

Our matching outfits in YSL utility bags and hardware boots

All I can say is: who wouldn't be delighted to do weekly lunch with such an interesting person!?

Going Recessionista: How to Cheap Out on "Certain" Items

2009-04-27T21:15:00.000-07:00

Every magazine out there seems to be covering this topic: shopping smart in this economy. They often come up with a list of 100 items under $500 or gifts under $100, but they don't tell you why or how you can look for reasonably priced products. To me, what matters in shopping smart is setting up the right strategy.

In the study of marketing, they use the terminology "value customer" when describing price-sensitive shoppers. These value customers favor discounts and products sold in bundles - even if that meant buying a couple more unneccessary products to benefit from the "buy 5 get 3 deal." These people make up the target segment that can be easily persuaded into trading in quality at slightly higher prices for cheaply-made inexpensive goods that don't last more than a year or two. When buying household utilities, this may be a perfect way of staying economical. In high fashion, however, being a value customer requires more sophisticated tactics.

First, it takes a lot of time and effort to be a value customer. You have to constantly fish around for the same product at a better price. This takes research costs - the time and money it takes you to jump from one store to another looking for that unbeatable price. Borrowing the term from economics, we can also say that being a value customer has an opportunity cost - cost that is lost by taking on one activity or in other words cost that you could have benefited from by going with an alternative solution. I'll try to explain this in the next paragraphs.

If you want to save more money in the end, you cannot and should not go cheap on every item. First thing that comes to my mind is a jacket. People often underestimate the importance of buying a jacket that contours body shape. I'm all for shopping at menswear section for slim boyfriend blazers or even at boys department for the classic navy boy blazer, but when the design itself has flaws - which often occurs in cheaply-made jackets - there is nothing you can do to fix it: the arms will look too loose on you or the shoulders will look too wide. Furthermore, the seams on less-costly jackets are usually sewn on sloppily. It is these seams that can make a jacket look like they were made for the body.

Another category of items that you'll be tempted to cheap out on but should not - because you will regret this - is shoes and bags. Let's take a closer look. When you see a woman strutting down the street in high heels, you can immediately notice how some of them have these uncomfortable gaits. It's not the way they walk. It's the flawed design in shoe-construction. One critic claimed that her legs looked much sexier in Manolos. I strongly second this comment. Manolos or not, when you wear well-constructed shoes, particularly heels, it puts your feet at a certain angle that makes your legs prettier. Not only do quality heels boost up your appearance but also, they are more comfortable to walk in because they correct your posture. There's one exception to this don't-cheap-out-on-shoes rule.

Cheap, fun summer sandals will prove to be worth your investment

When you're walking around the city all day, you're bound to ruin your everyday shoes. I don't know how many flats and flat sandals I had to part with from overworking them. If you wear them everyday, flat sandals don't seem to last more than a season no matter how carefully you walk in them. I've spent way too much on buying expensive sandals, thinking that breaking this holy grail no exception when it comes to shoes rule will end up costing me more than investing in several cheap shoes. However, I've finally come to realize that if you're going for basic sandals for everyday use, you can certainly cheap out on them and wear them all summer long until they last. The only thing is, even with inexpensive sandals, you still have to make sure they give you some arch support.

Recent purchase in SoHo - have fun with inexpensive, trendy accessories

Cheap accessories are also something that you can experiment with - guilt free - when going recessionista. I've recently bought a hand-made wrap-around leather bracelet with tiny gold studs in the streets and it's become my signature everyday item. Accessories are an easy way of adding value to your look. If you're searching for that look-of-the-moment item, why not purchase an inexpensive version of it and experiment with different styles? There are countless options: colorful spring/summer cotton scarves, gold jewelry, headbands, etc.

Aside from going cheap on the extra touch, basics can also be bought cheap successfully if you hit the right stores. Men's Calvin Kline white cotton t's, women's tanks at American Apparel or basic cotton shirts at J. Crew could prove to be useful and surprisingly long-lasting.

Here is one last fun suggestion. With summer months approaching, I find it satisfying to go vintage on sundresses. They tend to have flattering cuts - especially on petite frames - and you can buy a bunch at a time in different prints and colors without breaking the bank. I also find this activity to be a ton of fun - just something girly to do on a sunny Sunday afternoon with your bestfriend. Try on some seriously uplifting bright dresses as you listen to the country song playing in the background while rummaging through the racks.

Whichever way you decide to shop smart in this economy - because you cannot not shop - you should keep in mind that being a value customer on the right items will save you more in the end!

Trendspotting Part Two: Men's Fashion Item

2009-04-27T17:52:00.001-07:00

When it comes to men's fashion, I feel very strongly about certain items: cuff links, bow-ties, handsome well-fitted shirts, relaxed-but-not-too-sloppy pullovers, loafers, and those very soft cotton t's, sweaters and cardigans. Oh, I forgot to add that I love men's watches. If I were to ever wear one, it'd be a men's watch.

However, besides these classic items that every fashionable men should have in their closet, there are new additions that seem to demand my attention each season.

In 2006, it was the creation of 'man-bags.' As scary as they sound, I was horrified when Celine announced that they were targetting men in new campaign ads with their interpretation of man-bags. Until this point, what was acceptable to be hung on a guy's shoulder - at least for me - was a messenger bag worn across the chest or casually thrown on one shoulder. When the sitcom "Friends" had Joey carry a man-bag that looked like a woman's tote, I thought it was just for laughs. But the fashion world seemed to have taken a serious cue from this episode and by 2008, I had guy friends around me who bought these man-bags from John Varvatos. They looked a little too small to pass as messenger bags but not as feminine to be classified as women's totes. It was still a strange concept to me until I finally saw the campaign ad in a magazine.

Source: Celine Archives

There are different types of man-bags, but the style introduced by the House of Celine was more of a handsome satchel rather than a purse. It was smaller than messengers or messenger type brief-cases and from what I know, men usually avoid this ambiguous size - for being accused as a man-bag carrier - but I could see how guys can successfully pull off this look. A funny encounter but I recall this conversation with a guy who was interested in women's purses and what we carried in them. He confessed that while women generally tend to have more necessities, men too could use a bag that carries their wallet, books, chapsticks, or that extra pair of sneakers for an afternoon run.

My dad - who is far from wanting to look fashionable - seemed to have felt this need. One summer, he started carrying this pouchette designed for men. I'm still not sure what is and what isn't appropriate for men when it comes to man-bags. However, I strongly oppose the concept of guys sporting...well, pretty clutches like this one in the picture.

A Brazilian guy posing with my friend's clutch at a party.
His red striped shirt matched her red velvet clutch.
What do you think of this men's new fashion item?

Recently, I read a New York Times article on big, Dutch bicycles turning into a men's accessory. Despite what the article says or what the editorial is going for, setting the Dutch bicycle as the trend item may not be feasible. These stylish guys probably won't dare wrinkling their carefully ironed trousers or khakis for the sake of having a new It fashion item.

Source: NYT "Dress Codes: The Dutch Bicycle"

To me, this is where the crucial difference lies. I know a handful of women who'd do anything to get their hands on the new It item - be it a bag, shoes, or simply a trendy item. However, I can't picture men compromising their values (for instance, always toting well-ironed trousers) for an It item. The impact just isn't as powerful. Whatever that is coming up next in men's fashion, I'll be watching how it translates into an actual trend but after hearing men's similar needs in making fashion work with their new urban lifestyle, I'll be observing with an open mind.

Trendspotting Part One: Homage to My Stylish Mother

2009-04-27T16:16:00.000-07:00

Every month, you receive a women's fashion magazine featuring "20 Must-Have It Items," or "268 New Looks for This Season." What does this all mean?

If you ferret out 264 looks out of 268, you could probably spot a pattern in the upcoming trend. This is what they formally call trendspotting in the industry. I've read countless articles and books on this subject matter and I briefly worked at a place where this ability to spot trends was not only a great skill to have as a fashionista but a job requirement. Foreseeing what's to come next in fashion demands a careful examination of the following: what's happening in the streets around the globe (especially the places named as fashion meccas, namely New York, Paris and Milan), runway shows for that season and recent showings from the past years, celebrity attires and the repeated elements in editorials of different magazines.

As you can tell from previous posts, much of my personal style is inspired by mom's looks. If I were to identify my personal style with certain regions, it'd be a cross between New York, New England, and Italy. The first two come from where I spent most of my time in the recent years and it makes a perfect sense that my looks were influenced by the culture and people of these places. The part about my Italian dressing - love for things that are made out of leather, well-tailored jackets/coats/trousers, rich color pigments in garments, or the way of mixing prints - was adopted from my mom's personal style.

Prints and colors: subdued fuscia pashimina wrap, Tory Burch marmalade flipflops for traveling, statement pants in an Etro print

She dresses like an Italian in the way she expertly mixes different textures and prints. She is a woman who wears colors. In fact, lots of colors: salmon, lilac, seafoam, dove grey, honey mustard, hunter grey. She experiments with these pretty - and often saturated - hues by varying garment materials - usually silk, cotton, and cashmere. When it comes to her personal style, she's an incredibly fascinating subject. She's never lived in UK, but knows how to sport a herringbone jacket and actually looks for an elbow patch. She's never lived in Milan, but appreciates the beauty of Etro and Missoni and wears these prints with lots of colors that seems confusing at first but makes sense when you consider her outfit as a whole. She understands how clothes work and more importantly, she moves in the direction of where the rest of the industry is heading towards, only a few steps ahead. To sum it all up, she sets the trend without realizing it.

Textures and color palette: layered cashmere sweaters,
herringbone trousers, suede trim on her handbag

One of my favorite winter looks of my mom: a reformed mink cape in her own design (love the scalloped edges), Theory trousers with subtle pink stripes that match her salmon pink sweater, seafoam earrings paired with a turtle-neck in the same color tone

It was my mom who bought me leggings my sophomore year in high school. No one at the time wore leggings as an outerwear. She introduced me to the world of comfort and lean bottom look with leggings. I still love them as much as I did when I first started pairing them with dress shirts for the contrast (sportswear with classic oxford button-downs), but they lost their initial appeal after they were trendspotted somewhere and became a fashion fad in 2008 spring/summer.

Same thing happened with a tailored white blazer in boyfriend cut. I discovered my respect for Helmut Lang design quite recently, and was debating between this white blazer and a black moto jacket. Both items were investment pieces, but I was leaning towards the black jacket as they were gaining popularity among the fashion crowd. My mom stepped in. She suggested that classic white blazers are always in and that everyone should own one. It had beautiful thin arms and equally slim but handsome lapels. I loved this blazer even more after I purchased it as it became an extremeley versatile item that can make any outfit look more pulled together. A year and a half later, I see this "white blazer" being categorized as a must-have for the season. Then I see celebrities sporting one over printed silk chiffon dresses or simple body con numbers. How did she know?

Whenever something like this happens, I'm pleasantly surprised with the effect. It was beginning of my high school days - my mom bought me a pair of ballerina flats. Flats had been around for decades, but no one was picking up on them. Given the geography, people wore crittered flip-flops, tassled loafers or winter boots to survive snow storms. I started collecting flats after the first pair although I had to actively search for them. By the end of my high school education, others were wearing them. To my surprise, stores finally started carrying them.

I can name several occasions like this with military-inspired jackets and big brass buttons, or with big statement earrings. Could these have been a result of pure coincedence? Or did she have a hunch? I believe in the latter. It may be a cliche to say this but style cannot be bought with money like the way you can with clothes. You have to build your own personal style around what's around you - things that inspired you in readings and films or from people and culture that surround you. That first step teaches you how to appropriately mold these influences in a unique way that both flatters your body and complements your character.

I think once you know how to do this - by having an innate ability or through years of practice - you can sort of predict what's to come next. You may not be able to nail every single one of them, but you may get pretty close to it by foreseeing the ones that kept popping up in your outfits without you realizing it. That's the pattern in trendspotting. If you could spot this pattern in your own well-cultivated style, why would it be difficult to spot trends that share similar elements in other fashionable people's dressing?

Season of Change

2009-04-27T14:08:00.000-07:00

(Spring. Mulberry St. at Lafayette)

After a brief hiatus from running a blog, I decided to pick it up again. The same integrated board is still on the company website, but I'll be updating my posts on this blog.

The last time I posted an entry, it was a cold winter night and it's already nearing the end of spring as the temperature in New York City has been approaching the 80s and 90s for the past few days! As we all know, spring is a great time to make changes - whether it's making room for your summer wardrobe in colorful palettes, picking up the book you left unfinished awhile back, or going to see those foreign films that you've been meaning to see at the Independent Film Center.

To satisfy my occasional need to see films that help me breathe and untangle the thoughts that had been lingering in my head, I've decided to actively participate in Tribeca Film Festival held in New York City every year. It's hard to miss Tribeca Film Festival for several reasons: (1) the main theatre that hosts the event (AMC Village) is only couple of blocks away from my current residence (2) when else would you be able to go see an indie Danish film in the afternoon and a Mexican production at night without feeling like you're trying too hard to become an indie movie aficionado (3) this year's line-up is pretty amazing and there are just too many good ones to be missed.

After my experience with Tribeca Film Festival in 2007, I've decided that dealing with rush tickets is the most inefficient way of getting in - let alone being able to enjoy the movie after the 1-hour wait on a sweltering day. For this reason, I compiled a list of films that I absolutely MUST go see this year and bought all the tickets in advance. These are some of the ones that made it to my list:

(1) Café Paraíso (Mexico)
"Two Mexican immigrants who work as cooks at the Café Paraíso...where reality becomes fiction and fiction becomes reality" - Tribeca Film

> The part that particularly draws in my attention is the last sentence of the movie description. I often wonder what my life would look like observed through a third person's eye: placing myself on the stage and watching myself perform as I carry out daily activities - my reality, the world I live in - which may seem rather mundane to me at times, but could mean something more significant or even seem fascinating to an audience.

Inferring from the passage, this film seems to be invoking this question: is there a script for life? what is the difference between fiction and actual living, if there is any? When does this boundary begin to blur to an extent, where you can't distinguish what is real from what isn't? Can you tell what's in your control from what is truly beyond your reach? And lastly, what remains at the end of this process of living or creating living in a more fictional sense? Is it your reality or what you deem to be your reality which really is indeed fiction? (I find this very disturbing) I'd love to go see how the Director unravels the story and constructs his message - especially the delivery part on this topic.

(2) Queen to Play (France)
A story of a French Riviera hotel maid gaining a new shot at life through chess-playing. The concept of using the game of chess as the driver for a life change is a fresh one. In Hollywood movies, it takes a more dramatic approach - wrestling in "The Wrestler" or becoming a rapper in Eminem's "8 Mile." The subject of chess-playing, to me, seems rather peaceful and I'm curious to see how the Director turns this into a significant catalyst for a new life.

(3) Rudo y Cursi (Mexico)
I'd skipped this one when I was going through the film guide. It was my friend who suggested that we should go see this one for... Gael García Bernall! The fact that Diego Luna is in this film alongside Bernall is also a plus, but more importantly, Alfonso Cuarón is one of the producers of the film - and we all know what an incredible story-teller he is.

My friend sent me this New York Times article on the film: "The Three Amigos of Cha Cha Cha."

(4) Original (Denmark)
I generally enjoy movies like this one, in which the main character who had it all loses it all at once and realizes what a fool he/she had been by following the traditional route. Yes, the subject isn't the most original part about the film, but I see a great potential in this light-hearted production. The main character seems to mirror the classic anti-hero example of our society and we have seen plenty of them in both Hollywood and foreign films. However, you can't escape the feeling of rare satisfaction from this type of movie. You can't help but cheer for the character - who in fact isn't that much different from you - trying to "tie up some loose ends" but nothing goes as planned and is left with no other option but to explore life as it is presented to you. In this case - the journey takes him to a strip club, Ikea and involves "a feminist performance artist" and "a big bag of steroids." Very interesting.

(5) Girlfriend Experience (USA)
The subject of the film which focuses on an adult film star and her boyfriend who accepts her lifestyle and a choice of career seems to be a touchy one. However, if you could look past the sexy elements, the message of the film is rather poignant:

"...this film is at its heart a portrait of a woman who is determined to stay at the top of her game, hiring consultants to keep her at the peak of her profession. As such, the film becomes an investigation not only of her relationships but also of the various transactions—commercial, sexual, emotional, and otherwise—of everyday life." - Tribeca Film

Who are we to judge this character who happens to have a socially unacceptable career? At the end of the day, aren't we all striving to stay at the peak of our games?

(6) Oil Change (USA)
It's not the plot of the film that interests me. It's the delivery of the film that begs me to go see this one.

This is what the description reads:
"Kole and Teresa never thought they needed mansions, fancy cars, or a clean track record to make their relationship work... And then they got to know each other." - Tribeca Film

If I'd just read this part, I would have passed on this one. But it's the part where they say, "A big helping of truth is served at a dinner party in Oil Change," that makes the film appealing to me (Tribeca Film). I call this Virgina Woolf's Mrs. Dalloway effect. You're using one, simple element and shaping an entire story around that event. In Woolf's book, it's the life of Mrs. Dalloway examined from the activities she does in one day.

I find this literary device powerful. You have only one focus element - in this movie, a dinner party. One entree so to speak. But then there are many side dishes being served throughout the dinner which add flavor to the story. What you get is a slow-cooked dish with a mix of rich flavors blended in together but certainly complementing the main dish. In these types of films, I seldom wonder what compelled the Director to choose this particular medium - dinner party - to deliver his message. It could have been a tennis match or a shopping spree, but it had to be a dinner party. Hopefully, if the film doesn't let me down, it'll help me see why the director made this choice.

For more information on Tribeca Film Festival, visit their official website.

LP Record Shop in Notting Hill, London

2008-12-02T11:40:00.000-08:00

Don't we all love stumbling across something unexpected and wildly exciting!

After spending hours browsing through Portobello Market, I came across this wonderful LP record shop. Here are some true gems I found in this store that day: the Velvet Underground and Nico produced by Andy Warhol, The Who's "Sell Out," Nat King Cole's "Story." The shop also had amazing collections of Beatles, Francoise Hardy, Tom Watts, the Kinks and Serge Gainsbourg. Upon request, the manager would play any LP album in the store. I asked him if I could listen to the tracks of Nat King Cole's "Story."

Ahh. What a sincere gesture. His voice coming through an old record player on a rainy day sounded incredibly rich, authentic, and genuine, as if he were trying to tell me some kind of truth. I stayed in the shop watching people as they sprinted down the street until the last note of his track fizzled out into November rain.

The Midnight Garden

2008-11-22T21:06:00.000-08:00

I've been battling with a spool of 36mm silk satin ribbon for the past two days to craft several black rosettes in their most delicate forms. These rosettes will go on to serve a more important purpose as a part a bigger project, but right now, I'm just trying to figure out a way to best manipulate the fabric. So far, I have made two different types of rosettes. The photo is a little deceiving since the smaller rosettes are actually only about a quarter of the larger rosettes in size, which are about 5cm in diameter. The larger rosettes, as you can see in the two photos below, are flatter than the smaller ones and look more like corsages than rosettes.

French Dressing (part 4)

2008-11-22T18:04:00.000-08:00

(part 4) OLD CRAFTSMANSHIP

Bought a small, well-made boussole at an antique shop in Le Marais and got inspired to get some silk lace and satin ribbon to make it into a necklace. As I experimented with different fabrics, I became increasingly more intrigued by the way texture worked with pieces. I added in mustard yellow rope material to play around with the combination of silk, lace, and metal.

French Dressing (part 3)

2008-11-22T17:43:00.000-08:00

(part 3) COGNAC LEATHER

French Dressing (part 2)

2008-11-22T17:21:00.001-08:00

(part 2) SILK & LACEWORK

Beautiful lacework on a vintage blouse and intricate fabric details on a silk 1940s style boudoir jacket. Found on Rue du Roi de Secile in Le Marais.

The lace on the blouse is incredibly soft and the jeweled buttons caught my eye as well. I like the overall construction of the blouse, especially the flap on the shoulders that continues on the back. A definite show-stopper that can be dressed up with a clean-cut pencil skirt or trousers or down with denim.

The peach-toned boudoir jacket with ruffles is one of my favorite vintage finds. It dresses up any basic item, whether it's a white t-shirt or a simple black racerback minidress. Originally designed to be thrown on top of undergarments, boudoir jackets have that demurely sexy element to them. As rare as these pieces are to come by, I was determined to add the jacket to my vintage collection, but the lady at the store refused to sell it the first time I asked. She said the piece wasn't in a sellable condition as it was not properly washed. I had to swing an impromptu speech on love-at-first-sight-with-the-piece, but in the end, she was convinced!

French Dressing (part 1)

2008-11-22T17:09:00.000-08:00

(part 1) SCARVES

Vintage silk scarves I scored in Paris. The shop owner kindly helped me pick out the prettiest ones from the treasure chest. He also gave me two gratis scarves as a souvenir! I like the polo one the best for its mix of colors.

YSL's Signature Envelope

2008-11-22T16:53:00.000-08:00

A new vintage find in Maastricht, The Netherlands.

It's a basic black messenger. If you look closely, however, the details scream vintage YSL. I especially liked the gold emblem and the envelope motive for the construction, which became the fashion house's signature over the years. Aside from the quality leather and a touch of gold, the beauty of this bag lies in its practicality - roomy enough to hold everything, can be worn across the chest or be used as an oversized clutch. It was another successful vintage score in the Netherlands!

A Girl Dreaming

2008-11-18T11:30:00.000-08:00

Rows and rows of satin ballet toe shoes!

A visit to Repetto transported me back to my girlhood as these powder pink ballet shoes greeted me at the store on Rue du Four. Along with delicate lacework on blousons and nightwear which fascinated me so much in Paris, this experience inspired me to incorporate girly elements (lace! lace! lace! - and satin ribbons) into my current black, goth outfits consisted of black ensembles, white blouses, refined hardware boots and bejeweled accessories.

Repetto ballet flats seem to be the choice of footwear among celebrity style icons including Kirsten Dunst, Chloe Sevigny and the likes when it comes to comfort and a dose of chicness.

For me, it's their basic, black pair. They make my lazy outfits look instantly more pulled-together. Last night was one such occasion. November rain has its way of putting me in a somber mood and I didn't feel like crawling out of bed for a coffee date. I called my friend and complained that I didn't feel like putting on clothes and in fact, I was still in my underpinnings cuddled up under the comforter.

"Helena. Do what you always do. Just put on a coat and throw on your flats."

Ah. That's all I needed to hear.

-
Something extra:

Audrey Hepburn wearing hers in Funny Face (1957).

Photo credit: IMDB

Roasted Chestnuts

2008-11-16T09:26:00.000-08:00

Roasted chestnuts are one of my fondest childhood memories. I remember my dad bringing home a dozen of roasted chestnuts in a newspaper-rolled cone after work. He would gently place a well-roasted chestnut on my palm. I can still feel the brisk winter air transmitted from his cold hand brushing against mine.

On a chilly November afternoon, I was walking down Blvd. Haussman en route to Printemps and saw a cart selling roasted chestnuts in front of Galeries Lafayette. A sudden nostalgic feeling crept over me. It took a new city, different people and the turn of the century. Yet, with billowing smoke from the chestnuts on the grill, Christmas decorations hanging from the ceiling, and the bustling streets full of parisiennes and tourists, it felt like winter 1997 again.

I took a moment to breathe and allowed myself a short daybreak. The chestnuts began to fill my body with the same warmth that had once shielded a young girl from the cold.

Current Infatuation

2008-11-16T07:22:00.000-08:00

old French lace on chemise, nighties, knickers, and bloomers, burgandy red lips, crisp white dress shirts paired with denim, shorts or leggings, leopard-print shoes, collectible chandeliers from Paris, high-waisted jean shorts as a perennial favorite when paired with breezy gauze tunic/silk blouse in the summer or with black Wolford tights and a cozy cashmere sweater in the fall, crowns, christmas lights, yellow accents on outfits - yellow shoes, yellow dress, yellow gold bracelet - you can easily spot them from a distance and they can really make any dull outfit a bit more vibrant, Azzedine Alaia heels with cut-out details, old-fashioned round weekenders, oversized doctor bags as travel cases, leather duffel bags, Miss Jones cocktail hats - only to be found in europe!, costumes, theme parties - mainly because of the costumes as they free your imagination, but the exotic, out-of-this-world ambience adds to the experience, bustier, moose heads, vintage rose gold Rolex, cuff-links, random phone calls from an old friend, smell of burning wood, fireplace, chestnuts in the winter, s'mores - bonfire, marshmallow on a wooden stick sandwiched inbetween graham crackers and decadent chocolate, bubble bath, Calcutta marble floor, christmas carols at any time of the year, picnic at the Central Park in the spring, lunch at Loeb Boathouse in the Central Park on a sunny day for the lake view and people on canoes, a serene walk along the Seine River with a freshly-baked baguette in hand, surrounded by French conversations and accordian players, dimly-lit old libraries, custom-made jewelry, vintage box clutches, tailored wool sheath dress for power lunch and business meetings, powdery smell of grandma's beauty counter - my grandma has always had her Guerlain Meteorites on hers, ballet toe shoes, silk nightwear with wool socks, mint hookah, anything nautical, sailing, lobster on open fire in Maine, all-white outfits (straight from a tennis court!) accessorized with scarves and candy-color cardigans in summertime Newport, Rhode Island, bandage dresses a la Herve Leger or Alaia's old collections, architectural back designs on dresses, Paul Smith socks (spotting a pair on a guy is an instant mood booster), mimosas and bellinis over brunch, smell of freshly mown lawn, petticoats, pipe organs, baroque period, Gauguin paintings - they put me at ease for some reason and I like them even more after reading William Somerset Maugham's "The Moon and Sixpence" (1919), Gabriel Garcia Marquez's magical tales which help me drift off to somewhere far far away, finding luxury in morning coffee, hand-written letters

I would like to take classes in...

2008-11-16T07:05:00.000-08:00

1. professional DJ'ing
2. shoe-construction and designing at Polimoda in Florence, Italy
3. tailoring
4. tango
5. wine-tasting

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Something extra:

A tango scene from the movie, "Love and Other Disasters" (2006). Notice how swiftly Brittany Murphy maneuvers her moves in a form-fitting LBD and sleek stilettos. I would love to become an amateur tango dancer.

Wolford Tights

2008-11-16T05:57:00.000-08:00

Wolford tights are very simple and there is beauty in their simplicity. Personally, I like 'cotton velvet' for all year around and 'merino tights' for the winter. I have never been a huge fan of shiny satin-finish tights underneath minis and shorts and Wolford makes the perfect, non-see through, matte tights that are both comfortable and surprisingly warm. Not to mention they are extremely durable as they have lasted through my night out dancing and rigorous daily activities.

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Photo credit: Wolford Official Website, Face Hunter, Knightcat

The Newcomer

2008-11-15T20:13:00.000-08:00

As with several other film adaptations of great classics, The Great Gatsby, directed by Jack Clayton, didn't break my conception that cinematic interpretations tend to give me the impression of being very two dimensional. Ironic, isn't it, to see how pages of words contained within small rectangles can bring the kind of inspiration that no grand settings and marvelous actors can.

Nonetheless, this, while true, is besides the point that I'm trying to get to. The Great Gatsby boasts a wardrobe that has the potential to leave many fashion followers "paralyzed with happiness" (as well as Robert Redford fans who may not be into fashion at all, but that, again, is besides the point). While Jordan Baker was the character that I secretly wanted to get to know when I first read the novel (don't you find yourself wanting to become friends with some of the characters when you're reading a novel as well?), it was Daisy Buchanan, played by Mia Farrow, who kept me engaged in the film version of The Great Gatsby. Despite my contempt for Daisy as a character, I finally got the DVD mainly to study her closet.

Daisy tends to don clothes that freely flow against her petite frame. On many occasions, she adds an extra touch to her outfits with silky see-through layers that dramatically sweep the air, giving her more presence.

It's hard to see in these images, but she has small lavender branches perched on the side of her hat, which prevents the flatness that her same-tone, same-material outfit may bring.

Ombre! Love it.

Her party dresses don't stray far from the typical image of a woman from the 20's. However, her tremendously roomy coat certainly creates more of an effect than just that, don't you think?

This could possibly be my favorite piece from Daisy's wardrobe. I have no explanation for my disposition for this outfit other than to say that it just seemed so appropriate for this particular scene (in which the five characters, out of Daisy's whim, take a trip to the town on a hot summer day).

Cutting chase to the last scene of the movie, Daisy's wardrobe changes along with the change in weather. It's a little sad that weather plays such an important role in the novel, because I wish the director could have taken the liberty in adding more coats to Daisy's closet.

In spite of my original intention to focus only on Daisy's outfits, I couldn't help but marvel at the men's suits as I was clicking through the scenes that Daisy was in. My nod of approval came at the end of the film when, as the credits were rolling, I spotted Ralph Lauren's name:

These impeccable masterpieces speak for themselves, but here are some pointers to guide you in the direction that I'm coming from:

1. Gatsby's gold watch chain
2. Vests, vests, vests!
(look out especially for the tiny vests that Tom and Gatsby sport at the party)

3. The sophistication of the casual look

4. The colors of the suits

5. The SHOES

6. The SWIMSUIT

And finally... the dream closet.

No words could sufficiently express my excitement right now although I've seen this movie over and over again a few times already.Here are some party scenes to leave you with... plus Daisy's Cartier ring (I like the slinkiness of the dress that starts out in the far right in the series of three pictures):

Simply precious.

Framemaker on Rue Vaneau

2008-11-15T18:11:00.000-08:00

I stumbled across this hidden gem on Rue Vaneau. The old man spotted me peering through the glass door, gave me a quick, comforting smile, adjusted his magnifying glass and promptly went back to his work. It was a beautiful sight. This was exactly what I looked forward to seeing in Paris: specialty shops taking custom-orders, family-run businesses, and old craftsmanship which is an important part of the French heritage.

Chanel Collectibles

2008-11-15T18:04:00.000-08:00

A beautiful amethyst brooch and a pair of drop earrings with tiny pearls found in a shop in Vaneau. It was worth getting lost several times on Rue Vaneau.

Irish Malt and Old Shoes

2008-11-15T17:33:00.000-08:00

Vintage finds from Le Marais.

A Short List

2008-11-15T16:16:00.000-08:00

1. clothes shop: small boutiques in big cities, thrift stores, Bergdorf for dresses, Printempts, menswear section of any contemporary brands for sweaters and basics, YSL store on East 57th Street, online sites
2. shoes: Barneys on Madison always has a nice selection, Manolos because they fit like gloves and I can run in these heels even on cobblestone, vintage oxford lace-ups, riding boots, Repetto ballet flats, Tod's for driving mocs, Havaianas flip-flops.
3. jewelry: hand-me-downs from mom, fun cocktail pieces from Kenneth Jay Lane and Lulu Guinness (a yellow gold charm bracelet with red lipstick and lips, an oversized octopus ring and delicious fruit pendants), vintage Chanel collected in Paris, simple gold bracelets and earrings from Gorjana, Rachel Leigh and Gara Danielle, Erickson Beamon statement earrings, some signature pieces (school ring, a round pocket-watch worn as a necklace, a handmade everyday bracelet) and Fred Leighton for inspiration
4. current bags: YSL downtown (black) and uptown (ivory) as my everyday utility bags, vintage gold mesh clutch for night-outs, an oversized black Martin Margiela patent leather clutch which holds everything including my 11' laptop.
5. accessories: Emilio Pucci scarves, cocktail hats, leather gloves, mongolian fur gilet (which I consider an accessory rather than a piece of clothing), cashmere throws for traveling
6. sweet/pastries: Ladurée macaroons, dark chocolate, gelato, fruit tarts
7. city: New York City, Paris, Antwerp
8. drink: diet coke, chardonnay, gin and tonic
9. film: Sabrina with Audrey Hepburn, Lolita, Almost Famous, Virgin Suicides, everything by Wes Anderson
10. workout: yoga, pilates, walking, running on treadmill and sometimes outdoors
11. coffee: cappuccino with brown sugar, Starbucks soy latte, if I'm craving sweets, I'd go for a toffee-nut latte instead
12. current reading: An anthology of poems on life (Sylvia Plath, Poe, Wordsworth to name a few), "Flappers and Philosophers" by F. Scott Fitzgerald, Dutch Elle, Vogue Italia for Steven Meisel, L'Officiel, W for Juergen Teller
13. always carrying: LoBella lip balm, Dr. Hunter's rose hand creme, Blackberry, Guerlain bronzer, Sony Cyber Shot, Ricola, a notepad and a pen.
14. scent: Houbigant Paris, Chanel Coco Mademoiselle, Marc Jacobs Daisy, Agent Provocateur
15: flowers: peonies, hydrangeas, magnolia, orchids
16. colors: saffron yellow, fuschia, salmon pink, washed-off white, peach, royal navy, faded black, cognac
17. food: niçoise salad, green curry, miso ramen, tapas, breakfast food (cereal, waffles, omelette)
18. tea: earl grey, jasmin
19. currently collecting: lingerie, silk rompers, hats, 4'' stilettos, silk scarves, boy blazers, white t-shirts, colorful bikinis, box clutches, jewelry cases, early 1900s postcards, opera glass
20. fruit: cherry, grapefruit, apricot, raspberry

All Things Vintage

2008-11-15T15:53:00.000-08:00

I have a penchant for vintage items. Be it a pair of oxford lace-ups, leather bags, jewelry or floral sundresses, sometimes I prefer them old, worn in, beat-up with untold stories and history. Right before I left New York City for Europe, I decided to invest in a perfect pair of vintage glasses. I knew I wanted a thick frame, but I wasn't sure about the shape. My best bet was to visit Linda Derector on Mott Street in Nolita.

I was torn between a very modern looking pair in black with little studs on the sides and this classic looking tortoise shell frames. Black ones were more of I was expecting as I usually prefer square frames on my face. But when I tried on this beauty, I knew these were the ones.

They were a bit more round than what I'd normally go for, but surprisingly they fit my facial structure perfectly and gave me that nice geeky, secretarian effect I wanted. Linda herself very kindly helped me pick out these glasses and I can't be happier with them. A beautiful case is always a plus.

Greek Yogurt

2008-11-15T15:44:00.000-08:00

My new obsession: greek yogurt.

Just add a little bit of honey to greek yogurt and throw in some berries. It's the perfect mid-day snack.

(pictured: dutch greek yogurt and dutch honey with acacia)

Chanel on Fashion

2008-11-01T12:50:00.000-07:00

I can attest to these two quotations by Coco Chanel on fashion:

"Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening. "

"Look for the woman in the dress. If there is no woman, there is no dress."

This is what made the brand name Chanel classy and timeless. She understood the abstract concept called 'fashion', and saw the power of this concept in its ubiquity. To Chanel, fashion was an idea labeling anything - be it a garment, an object, or even a scene - inspirational and creative. In that sense, fashion had to be relevant to us - more specifically, to women wearing her designs - and the world we live in.

In a sea of mass-produced fast fashion and fads, her saying especially rings true. Yes, there are great designers out there working on their projects and collections based on this full-proof principle, and yet, the mass is still consumed with the distorted image of fashion focused solely on the final product not the design behind it. Some just do not seem to know how to distinguish 'something quick and trendy' from a well-thought-out design that encompasses the most interesting happenings of our lives or what I call the luxury of life.

Chanel's concept of fashion was bringing the best out of the wearer through her garments. She was most concerned with providing the woman walking into her store with a design that flatters her, and more importantly, brings the spotlight to her character rather than burying it in the glitz of the garment.

Understanding fashion and having a personal style can make people more interesting. But it is important to note that it's only half about the actual garment. The more interesting other half lies in the construction, fabric, design, and the story behind the garment. Matching this combination perfectly with an appropriate, sensible style is what gives an extra glow to the wearer.

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Something extra - two quotes by Coco Chanel I try to live by:

(an old Chanel ad)

"The most courageous act is still to think for yourself. Aloud."

"A girl should be two things: classy and fabulous."

The latter is my all-time favorite.
Try to live by that, it isn't easy, but it's surely tons of fun.

Balmain's Creation of the New Women

2008-10-29T11:53:00.000-07:00

Balmain's Decarnin has revived punk rock chic with a twist of modern sensibility. I especially enjoyed his past three collections for their near-perfect representation of the New Women of our era. She is rebellious, free, and whimsical. She wears beautifully crafted (and a bit edgy) clothes with a fitting attitude. Think Cat Power wearing head-to-toe black in Chanel.

"There's a woman that you ought to know
And she's coming, singing soft and low
Singing rock and roll, she's a joy to know"
- Buffalo Springfield

Shaping Memories with Clothes

2008-10-29T11:06:00.000-07:00

Re-reading the following passage by J. D. Salinger never fails to remind me of the first time I fell in love with clothes. We often remember people by the music they like, food they crave, perfume they spritz, and clothes they wear. Fashion for the mass or "fast-fashion" as the industry appropriately coined the term has distorted much of this medium of remembrance, but some of us seldom carry memories of people through their favorite articles of clothing or pieces of accessories. For my mom, it's her Hermès silk scarves and signature drop diamond earrings. For my sister, it's her perennial cashmere cardigans and fun headbands from Bendels. For me, it's my collection of colorful minidresses, Pucci silk scarves, and cocktail hats.

Clothes do so much more than functioning as a form of expression. They have the power to create emotions and to shape people's memories. I thank J. D. Salinger for having described this process in such a beautifully delicate manner.

" If or when I do start going to an analyst, I hope to God he has the foresight to let a dermatologist sit in on consultation. A hand specialist. I have scars on my hands from touching certain people. Once, in the park, when Franny was still in the carriage, I put my hand on the downy pate of her head and left it there too long. Another time, at Loew's Seventy-second street, with Zooey during a spooky movie. He was about six or seven, and he went under the seat to avoid watching a scary scene. I put my hand on his head. Certain heads, certain colors and textures of human hair leave permanent marks on me. Other things, too. Charolette once ran away from me, outside the studio, and I grabbed her dress to stop her, to keep her near me. A yellow cotton dress I loved because it was too long for her. I still have a lemon-yellow mark on the palm of my right hand. Oh, God, if I am anything by a clinical name, I'm kind of paranoiac in reverse. I suspect people of plotting to make me happy."

Raise high the roofbeam, carpenters, and Seymour An introduction
J. D. Salinger